Guide to DIY decorating: Painting
For fellow interior designers reading this blog, I can't express enough how important it is that you've had a go at painting with the different brands you recommend, you've tried wallpapering, and have a basic understanding of the decorating processes you're putting into your schemes. This gives you the essential knowledge you need to understand the implications of your design decisions, such as knowing whether a small change makes a big difference to complexity or cost, and that means you can provide a better service for your clients.
Painting is the easiest DIY switch, and can save you £190 a day (the average cost of a decorator in 2022, according to Checkatrade). You can read more tips for renovating on a budget in my previous blog here, but as for painting you just need the right kit and to understand some basics about preparation and how paint works.
My advice for a good paint finish is to use a medium-to-low pile roller (saves paint!) unless you have bumpy walls, always use a synthetic brush. Use a roller as much as possible and just use a brush to cut in around the edges. Use a water-based paint where possible because it's not only more eco-friendly, but also muuuch easier to clean up (note, some brands can't mix darker colours in eggshell). Don't put too much paint on the roller (it shouldn't drip) and don't worry if the first coat looks patchy.You might think a thick application would mean less work, but thick paint chips more easily.
In most circumstances you're painting over a previously painted surface and as long as you make sure your surface is clean and dry (wash with sugar soap if needed) and avoid painting in damp or humid conditions, you can just get on with it.
When to use primer? All raw materials need priming first – fresh plaster or unpainted wood. Fresh plaster needs a mist coat, otherwise all your expensive topcoat will soak into the plaster and you'll need even more coats on top. The plaster should also be left to dry out fully before painting - if you force the plaster to dry quickly the plaster will crack, and if you paint on it too soon the paint will crack.
Bare pine or other knotty wood needs knotting solution before priming, which stops the oil in the knots seeping through your paint. You only need to prime a pre-painted surface if it's in a bad state or glossy (lightly sand to remove the sheen first, clean and hoover up all the dust, then prime).
You also need to spot-prime any holes that you've filled, otherwise your paint will look patchy over these areas. Filling holes is time consuming but very easy and worth it. You just need a premixed filler, a flat edge like a filling knife or even an old credit card, and a sanding block to smooth it down afterwards. Having said that, don't get caught up on every lump and bump, especially if you live in an old building. Once you have decorating, filled the room with furniture and hung art on the walls, you'd be surprised how little you notice those imperfections.
As well as good preparation, you need to understand drying and curing to make sure you get the best results. It will say how long your paint will take to dry on the tin - this is the time you need to leave it before doing the second coat. But you also need to leave it to cure (chemically set) before you touch it. This takes longer the shinier the finish, and gloss paint can take 3-4 weeks. If you start putting things on newly painted shelves or bashing schoolbags into newly painted panelling before it’s cured, you can expect smudges, chipping and a sticky feeling of never being quite dry.
I really enjoy painting. The prep takes forever, but once that's done you can get one coat on a whole room in a couple of hours. It's a quick and satisfying transformation – a great way to bring in a new colour to freshen up your interior and boost your mood. If you'd like more advice, book my Design Surgery or a Colour & Style Consultation for help bringing your interior dreams to life.